UNA PASTELERÍA CON SOLERA

 

Hace 24 años que Jesús Ortiz, propietario de la #PasteleriaOrtiz creo la corona de #SanVicente para honrar al patrón oscense.

#Huesca (#comercio).- “El mezclar crema y nata era algo novedoso, al menos en Huesca así que probamos a ver que le parecía a la gente y no solo gustó sino que se ha convertido en un postre que realizamos asiduamente para otras festividades como San Lorenzo, el día de la madre o carnaval”. Estas son palabras de Jesús Ortiz, inventor de las coronas de San Vicente que desde hace varias jornadas pueden comprarse en la pastelería Ortiz ubicada en los Porches de Galicia. Repasando con él y con sus hijos, Fernando y Ana, la cuarta generación, los 99 años del negocio familiar, recupera en un viejo cuaderno de notas las impresiones de aquel San Vicente del 94. “Se hacen tres docenas pero al final se vendieron 157. Precio 150 pesetas. Barato. Habrá que subirlo”.


Como bien recuerda su creador, era la primera vez que en el obrador de la pastelería Ortiz se mezclaba en un postre crema tostada con nata y se le añadía una fondant por encima. La idea se puso en marcha con otro pastelero de la ciudad, Manolo Soler, ya que se propusieron crear un postre que se identificase con la festividad. “Le dimos muchas vueltas y al final nos decantamos por la forma de corona. Tras informarnos, al principio era en realidad una rueda de molino ya que con ella se le lanzó al mar, pero fue en la tienda donde no les gustó lo de rueda de San Vicente y lo cambiaron por corona. Al año siguiente, otros pasteleros de la ciudad vinieron al obrador para aprender a hacerlas”, recuerda.


Desde aquel experimento hasta hoy ha llovido mucho y en la actualidad son sus hijos quienes están al frente del negocio. Se trata de la cuarta generación ya que fue el bisabuelo Antonio Ortíz quien en 1919 cogió el traspaso del Horno Artasona ubicado en el Coso Alto 37 (en la actualidad es el Coso Alto 25 y es donde mantienen el obrador). Posteriormente se incorporó su hijo Jesús quien introdujo poco a poco el tema de la pastelería con bombones y chucherías. “Comenzó siendo una panadería pero poco a poco se fue decantando por el tema de los dulces y así hasta hoy”, explica Ana Ortiz.

Ana tuvo claro desde muy pequeña que lo suyo era el obrador. Desde niña le encantaba trabajar ahí por lo que no dudó a incorporarse al negocio familiar a los 16 años. De su infancia, tiene recuerdos imborrables de las visitas al abuelo Jesús. “Siempre que salíamos del colegio pasábamos a ver al abuelo y siempre nos daba algo. En esa época los caramelos se vendían casi exclusivamente en las pastelerías por lo que el negocio era un paraíso para cualquier niño. Recuerdo que mis amigas alucinaban cada vez que me acompañaban”.
En la actualidad, el negocio ha variado respecto a lo que Ana y su hermano Fernando recuerdan de niños. Se ha modernizado en ciertos aspectos y los comerciantes se han tenido que amoldar a las nuevas costumbres. “Antes lo típico era ir el domingo a misa y después comprar pasteles para comer en familia, ahora la gente tiene otras costumbres como salir a pasar el fin de semana a la montaña y eso ha afectado en el sector de las pastelerías. En el caso de Huesca, concretamente, también nos ha afectado la peatonalización ya que antes entraba mucho turista de Zaragoza cuando bajaban del Pirineo y en mayor medida la apertura de Puerto Venecia que hace que la gente de Huesca se vaya de ‘excursión’ al centro comercial”, lamenta.
Para estar a la orden del día, Ana tiene que realizar cursillos constantemente y ya desde el inicio, sus padres procuraron que se formara dentro de la profesión. “No solo aprendí de mi padre y de mi abuelo, con quien llegué a trabajar. También fui con otros pasteleros para aprender otras técnicas como la de la mona de pascua que me la enseñó un pastelero amigo de mi padre con quien estuve un periodo en Cataluña durante mi formación y quien me enseñó a moldear el chocolate”.


A la hora de hablar del futuro del negocio, Ana no lo ve claro. “Temo que el sector de la pastelería está llamada a desaparecer”. Por ello, preferiría que sus hijas se decantasen por una profesión menos sacrificada. “Este negocio es muy sacrificado ya que no sabemos lo que es un domingo ni un festivo por lo que no me gustaría que ellas siguieran mis pasos. Además, cada vez nos ponen más trabas a nivel sanitario y de excelencia y eso para un pequeño negocio es complicado”.
Cuando apenas queda un año para cumplir el primer siglo de vida de su negocio, la familia Ortiz sigue trabajando con ilusión. El paso de los años ha hecho que la vida cambie y con ella los hábitos de las personas pero en su pastelería, la pastelería Ortiz de Huesca, mantienen la esencia del trabajo bien hecho y el producto de calidad.

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